Pagoda Shoulder Pads Layout

This original Pagoda shoulder pad shows each layer's separate pieces as they are back together.

#1 This is the first layer of bias cotton interlining that is on the bottom of the shoulder pad.

#2 This is the second layer bias cut of cotton interlining layer on top of the first piece.

#3 The third layers are several pieces of cotton felt cut and layered on top.

#4 the forth layer is of cotton batting layed on top of the other pieces.

#5 The fifth layer is a two piece pattern sewn together in pellon interfacing that is the under part of the top half of the shoulder pad.

#6 is a bias cut cotton buckram sewn together and layed at the bottom half of the top layers as shown.

#7 This is a bias cut cotton buckram two pieces sewn together and layed going upward on the shoulder pad as shown.

#8 Are layers of cotton batting layered under the seventh piece.

#9 The ninth layer is cotton felt layed down towards the shoulder pad as shown to give dimension on the shoulder pad off the shoulder.

#10 The tenth layer is a small piece of cotton batting layed in the ball of the top half of the shoulder pad.

#11 The eleventh leayer is a bias cut two piece pattern sewn together made out of cotton buckram layed on top of the outer top layer.

#12 The twelfth layer or outer top layer is a two piece pattern sewn and formed as shown in pellon stabilizer.

Sewing Directions for Knit Jersey Dress Pattern

  • This pattern has a 1/2” seam allowance everywhere except the neckline which has a 1/4” seam allowance.

  • Recommended fabric 60” wide poly double brushed polyester jersey knit fabric with 10% stretch (spandex)

  • Recommended lining 60” wide polyester or nylon stretch lining

  • This pattern takes 1 3/8 yards of 60 “ wide stretch jersey and 1 yard of 60” wide stretch lining.

  • LINNING

  • Place back pieces together at the CB area right sides together.

  • Stitch at 1/2” seam allowance and overlock the edges or use a four or five thread overlock machine and do two processes together.

  • LINING

  • Right sides together stitch and overlock shoulder seams at 1/2”

  • NOTE YOU MIGHT SEE A STAY STITCH ON THE NECKLINE IN THESE IMAGES COMING UP. THIS IS OPTIONAL!

  • LINING

  • Right sides together stitch and overlock the side seams at 1/2” seam-line.

  • LINING

  • Lay the front and back dress on a flat surface and cut off 3/4” of the hemline.

  • LINING

  • Overlock the hem of the dress lining all the way around.

  • TOP DRESS

  • Right sides together stitch and overlock the Center Back seam at 1/2” seam-line.

  • YOU MIGHT SEE A STAY STITCH AT THE NECKLINE IN THESE IMAGES AGAIN THIS IS OPTIONAL.

  • TOP DRESS

  • Right sides together stitch and overlock the shoulder seams at 1/2” seam-line.

  • TOP DRESS

  • Right sides together stitch and overlock the side seams at 1/2'“ seam-line.

  • TOP DRESS

  • Fold the front neckline in half and make a (notch) little 1/8” snip /cut at the center front.

  • Fold the front portion of the dress lining and make a (notch) little 1/8” snip/cut at the center front neckline.

  • TOP DRESS

  • Right sides together pin the top dress neckline to the lining at the neckline all around.

  • Match all notches/snips and seam-lines.

  • TOP DRESS

  • Straight stitch the neckline at 1/4” seam-line.

  • TOP DRESS

  • On the right side, pushing all excess seam allowances, backstitch at the lining side close to the edge.

  • The backstitching should be around 1/8” all the way around.

  • TOP DRESS

  • Press the neckline with a steam iron.

  • TOP DRESS

  • Lay the dress flat and pin down the top fabric dress to the lining around the armhole.

  • KEEP IN MIND IT’S IMPORTANT NOT TO FORCE THE TWO LAYERS TO MATCH THE EDGES AROUND THE ARMHOLE.

  • JUST LET IT LAY FLAT AND DON’T FORCE IT. THE EDGES MAY NOT MATCH.

  • Stitch together at 1/2” seam-line around the armhole.

  • SLEEVE

  • Right sides together stitch and overlock the sleeve under seam at 1/2'“ seam-line.

  • SLEEVES

  • Pin the right side of the sleeve to the right side of the dress armhole matching all notches and seam-lines.

  • Straight stitch around the armhole at 1/2” seam-line stretching as you sew to ease the area in between the notches.

  • SLEEVES

  • Overlock the edges of the armhole with all layers cutting off about 1/4” in the process.

  • SLEEVES

  • Overlock the edges of both sleeve hems.

  • TOP DRESS

  • Overlock the edge of the top dress hem at the edge.

  • DRESS LINING

  • Fold under and pin the lining of the hem under 3/4” and pin.

  • KEEP IN MIND THE LINING SHOULD BE TURNED UNDER INSIDE SO NOT SHOW THE ALLOWANCE IF THE TOP LAYER OF THE DRESS FLIPS UP.

  • DRESS - LINING

  • Top Stitch the lining at the hem-line a little less than 3/4”.

  • TOP DRESS

  • Pin up 3/4” at the hem on the top dress inside.

  • TOP DRESS

  • Top stitch the hem of the top dress at 3/4”

  • SLEEVES

  • Turn under pin and stitch sleeve hem at either 1/2” or 3/4” as desired.

  • Dress

  • Give the entire dress a nice press with steam and you are finished!

  • Try on your masterpiece!

Sewing Directions For The Unlined Jacket

The jacket pattern takes 2 3/4 yards of 45" wide fabric.

I recommend cotton broadcloth, silk jacquard, lightweight denim, and any medium-weight cloth.

Layout all pieces on the fabric, making sure to line up the grainlines parallel to the salvage. Keep in mind the upper collar is cut on the straight grain, and the under collar is cut on the bias. That is why I offer two grainlines on the pattern piece.

  1. Fold, pin, and sew front jacket panel darts and back shoulder darts together. Do not backstitch dart ends; instead, leave a three-inch length thread and tie the ends together twice—press dart excess on the front panel towards the center front. Press the back shoulder dart excess towards the center back.

2. Add lightweight Pellon tricot fusible interfacing on the back side of the front facings and top collar pieces. Use a damp cloth to steam and adhere to the fusible interfacing.

3. Attach and sew 1/4" double folded cotton bias tape to all outer pieces of each pattern piece. Check and see all areas to be bond.

4. Overlock all edges of the pocket pieces. Then, turn back the top pocket extension at the fold line and topstitch down. Turn the sides and bottom of the pocket edge 1/2" under and press.

5. Place the pockets on the front jacket's bottom area at 4" from the hem and 1 3/8" from the side seams, and top stitch it down close to the edges.

6. Right sides together, pin and sew all main pieces of the jacket together at a 1/2" seamline. Sew the shoulder seams together. Press all seams open.

7. Right sides together, sew the back neck facing and the front lapel facing together at the shoulder seams. Before doing this, make sure that you have bound all outer edges of the neck facing and lapel facing first.

8. Stitch a stay stitch at 1/2" on the top lapel areas and clip at the two corner angles.

9. Right sides together, pin and sew the top collar to the back neck and front jacket lapel area at 1/2" seam line. Pin and sew the bias collar to the back neck facing and front lapel facing. Clip and push the seam allowance upward as well.

10. Right sides together, pin and sew the top collar to the under the collar on all three sides at 1/2", making sure to correctly line up the seams at the lapel area.

11. Right sides together, pin and sew the lapel facing the lapel of the main jacket all around to the shaped hem at 1/2" seam line.

12. Trim excess seam allowance on the lapel and collar area to 1/4".

13. Turn and press all around the collar and lapel, gently pushing the point out.

14. Right sides together, pin and sew the top sleeve with the undersleeve at 1/2" seam line. Stop and back stitch at the placket extension area.

15. On the wrong side press, all seams open on the sleeve. You may add a strip of brown paper under each seam allowance area while pressing to prevent indentations on the right side of the garment. See this trick on my youtube video on the jacket.

16. Fold right sides together with the mitered corner of the sleeve placket area. Sew at 1/2" trim and turn to the right side, press.

17. Turn up the sleeve hem at 1 3/4" from the edge and press.

18. Overlap the sleeve placket extension, so they are even. Then baste the placket opening closed for the pho button placket. Do not baste it shut if you want to put buttonholes on the placket.

19. Sew the buttons of your choice on the placket area close together.

20. Slip stitch the hem inside all around. Place two rows of gathering stitches along the sleeve cap area.

21. Place each sleeve rights sides together with the jacket armhole matching all notches. Stitch at 1/2" seamline. Trim down and overlock the armhole seam allowance and steam the cap area. You may wish to apply the 1/4" double fold bias tape and bind the seam allowance edge.

22. Turn back the back neck facing and hand slip stitch the seam allowances together at the seam line to the top collar to secure it from moving.

23. Turn up the hem 1 3/4" press and pin on the inside.

24. Fold back the binding and slip stitch the hem all the way around. Note; I closed the back vent on this sample garment. If you want to keep the rear vent, refer to my YouTube video on the jacket sewing for instruction.

25. To sew the shoulder pads on, fold the shoulder pad in half and extend the rounded end 1/2" past the shoulder seam. Slip stitch the center of the shoulder pad to the seam allowance.

26. Try on the jacket and pin the overlapping placement of the buttons. You may want to use one, two, or even three buttons, and that is your choice.

27. Sew the button holes on the right side of the jacket.

28. Lay the jacket on the flat and overlap, and mark the button placements. Then sew the buttons on.

Three-Way Top Instructions

  • The Three-Way Top is two main pattern pieces.

  • This top is made from a jersey knit fabric, and takes 2 1/4 yards of either 60” or 45” jersey fabric.

  • The ideal fabric choices for this pattern are rayon jersey, cotton jersey, modal jersey knit, or a combination of cotton and rayon jersey. You may use jersey knits with or without spandex.

  • When I refer to “overlock” in the seams, it means the same as “serging” or “merrow”

BEFORE YOU BEGIN: To cut the Three-Way Top, lay the fabric right sides together and lay the pattern pieces with the grainlines parallel to the salvage. Cut two of each piece.

  1. Overlock the edges of the armholes on both the front and back pieces.

2. Place right sides together with the main front and back pieces, stitch and overlock the side seams at 1/2” seam allowance line.

3. Turn back and press under on the wrong side 1/2” at the armhole area. On the right side top stitch at 3/8” all around.

4. Lay the top ruffle pieces right sides together and overlock and stitch both ends at 1/2” seam allowance line.

5. Lay the wrong side of the top ruffle onto the right side of the top. Match the center notches together and the end armhole notches and pin in place.

6. Stitch and overlock the entire top area. Be sure to catch the top ruffle and main body pieces together.

7. Turn back the entire top area 1” to the inside for the casing. This is to fit 1/2” wide no roll elastic. Top stitch two rolls one at 5/8” and another at 1/8” away. Be sure to leave an opening to pass the elastic through.

8. Cut the 1/2” elastic at 31” long for the small / med and 32 1/2” for the large/ x large. Keep in mind this is were you can adjust the elastic length to your liking. You may want to cut the elastic longer to allow for a wider drape of the jersey top. Add a small safety pin to the end of the elastic for feeding. Now, feed the elastic into the casing distributing the gathers evenly. Fasten the elastic together laying one over the other and secure with a pin. (You might want to try the top on at this point to see if the elastic needs to be less or more. Then, secure stitch the elastic by stitching back and forth several times. Finally, on the right side close the casing by continuing the top stitches to follow the previous ones.

9. Overlock the entire hem edges.

10. Turn up 1” of the hem inside and press. Top stitch on the right side 3/4” all around.

Cowl Neck Top Instructions

  • The Cowl Neck Top takes 1 yard of 60” wide jersey knit fabric when cutting it on the straight grainline.

  • The Cowl Neck Top takes 1 3/4 yards of 60” wide jersey knit fabric when cutting the front panel on the bias grainline.

  • If you use a stretch woven fabric please go up a size and cut the front panel on the bias for proper drape and flexibility.

  • Stretch woven fabric is a woven fabric (not a knit) with spandex in it.

  • The recommended fabrics are rayon knit jersey, modal knit jersey, cotton knit jersey, without spandex.

  • If you want to use knit with spandex you will most likely need to go down a size.

  • Please note when I say overlock the edges it means the same thing as serge or merrow. This is to clean finish the edges of a garment and at times sew the seam at the same time.

  • The front pattern piece has two different grainlines. The original was cut on the bias. I have tested the pattern in jersey knit on the straight grain and it works as well. You have the option to cut the front pattern with either grainlines.


  1. Stay stitch the back neckline at 1/4” to keep it from stretching out.

2. Overlock the edge of all armhole on the front and back top as well as the front cowl neck edge

3. Place right sides together front and back top and stitch and overlock the side seams at 1/2”.

4. Turn back the overlocked armhole edges inside at 1/4” and topstitch to secure it down at 1/8” all around both armholes.

5. Fold and press the neck facing piece in half. Lay the doubles facing onto the right side of the back neckline and stitch down at 1/4”. Trim the excess and press up.

6. Turn back the folded neck binding inside and hand slip stitch it down.

7. Turn back at the fold line on the front cowl at the shoulder and lay and line up to the back shoulder area right sides together. Stitch and overlock the shoulder seams at 1/2”.

8. Press excess seam allowance towards the back shoulder and tack down at seam lines.

9. Overlock the entire hem edge.

10. Turn back 1/2” at the hemline and topstitch